Hi, my name is Lucia, but you may call me Rip Girl
I am here to tell you about the first time that I ever went surfing. Let me just say, it was AWESOME. Surfing was never really a thing that interested me too much. I’m not athletic at all, and it looked way too hard so it was definitely the last thing on my mind as we set off for Lacanau*, a beach town fairly close to Bordeaux. In fact, because it was October and it was around 65 F (~18 C) I didn’t even bring a swimsuit. I laughed at the idea of going into the water because I live in Miami where if it’s colder than 85 you’d better believe the water is not touching my body. So instead of being beach prepared I went wearing a scarf, a sweater, a jean jacket, pants and converse shoes. Didn’t you know that that’s the new beach fashion?
I entered the surf shop naively thinking I was just keeping my now ex-boyfriend’s roommate company while he rented a board (as life laughed hysterically). But then he turned to me and said, “Why don’t you do it? It’s only 12 euro for the board and the wetsuit.” 12 euro?!?! I thought it would cost around 80! But still… I had no swimsuit, I had no towel, and the water was going to be freezing by my standards. So I looked out towards the beach, then to the lady at the front desk, then to Alex (the roommate) and realized, what the hell?! Why not go for a little spontaneous surfing session?
So I went to this changing room that’s open and co-ed, which would be no biggie if I had had my swimsuit on like every normal person there, but I reaaaally didn’t wanna strip to my underwear in front of random people and a guy I’d met two days before. So I waited for everyone to leave in what ended up being the greatest decision ever since it spared me and everyone around the awkwardness of my attempt to get into a wetsuit. Let me tell you, those things are tight. I basically had to wrestle the suit in order to get into it, but afterwards I felt gooood. I mean, have you ever seen a person not look cool in a wetsuit?
Afterwards, they gave me a board double my size that I had to struggle to carry around as we made our way to the beach and then it.was.ON! I was fighting the waves, then I was befriending them, then they were tumbling me around. It was very, very hard to be balanced enough to stand up. I’m not gonna lie, lines from Mulan were playing in my head:
And I actually managed to stand once for about 3/4 of a second, which I count as a total victory.
Once I got back home I was extremely soar and exhausted, but I had had so much fun! It was honestly probably the most fun I’ve had at the beach in a very long time, even if I ended up having to use my sweater as a towel and buy a swimsuit so I wouldn’t have to walk around with wet clothes the entire day.
The waves kicked my butt this time, but round two’s coming soon…
* we were lucky enough to have someone with a car but if you live or are visiting in Bordeaux it’s very easy to get to Lacanau on the Transgironde (a bus line that goes through all of La Gironde). The fare is also extremely cheap, around 3 euro each way, so I would definitely recommend taking a day trip there!